Hey there! If you’ve ever stared at a cozy knit sweater with cute little stitched shapes or a throw pillow dotted with delicate details and thought, “I wonder how they do that knitting embroidery stuff?”—you’re not alone. A lot of people mix it up with regular cross-stitch or knitting alone, but it’s actually two awesome crafts merged into one that’s super versatile, not to mention perfect for sprucing up all your handmade (or even store-bought) gear. As an embroidery supplier, I work with knitwear makers and hobbyists every day who tell me they avoid it because it feels too tricky. Today I’m breaking it down step by step, no fancy jargon, just real tips that actually work. Embroidery
First, let’s clear up the confusion: knitting embroidery isn’t a separate craft—it’s stitching designs onto fabric that’s already been knitted. That could be a basic cotton knit, a chunky wool sweater, even stretchy knits for hats or baby clothes. The key difference from regular hand embroidery is that you don’t usually work on a flat woven base; the fabric has stretch and little gaps between stitches, so you’ve got to adapt your tools and technique a little. I’ve seen beginners jump in with a random needle and cheap thread, and that’s where they run into problems. Trust me, the right supplies make all the difference here.
Let’s start with the basics: supplies you actually need, no extra stuff. First up, your knit fabric. This is non-negotiable—if it’s super stretchy, like a jersey knit, go for a mid-weight one (think a standard hoodie fabric or a soft wool sweater) instead of something so stretchy it pulls out of shape when you stitch. If you’re working on a ready-made piece, make sure it’s washed and dried first—sweat, lotion, or detergent residue can make thread slip or fray mid-project. Next, needles. I can’t tell you how many times people grab a regular hand embroidery needle and get stuck. For knitting embroidery, you want an embroidery needle with a large eye and a sharp, slender tip that can slide between the knit stitches without splitting them. I always recommend size 7 or 9 depending on your thread; thinner thread needs a smaller needle, thicker wool blend thread needs a bigger eye. Then thread: don’t use regular all-purpose cotton if you’re working on a washable item (most knit wear is). Go for a polyester embroidery thread—it’s stretchy, holds up to multiple washes, and doesn’t fade in sunlight. If you’re working on a wool sweater, a wool thread blend works too, it blends in nicer. And last but not least, a pair of sharp scissors for cutting thread—dull scissors make frayed ends, which are a nightmare to fix.
Now, prep work that most beginners skip, and it saves so much headache. First, trace your design. Don’t just wing it—you’ll end up lopsided. The easiest way is to use a water-soluble pen or a fabric marker made for knits; regular markers can bleed into the stitches. If you’re nervous about drawing freehand, print a small design (like a heart, a tiny animal, or your initial) and place a piece of tracing paper over it, then trace onto a sticker. Stick the sticker to your knit fabric, and the lines will wash off once you’re done. Pro tip: don’t trace designs too close to the edge of your piece, because pulling stitches too close to the border can make it pucker. If you’re working on a knit that’s already sewn together (like a shirt), always turn it inside out first to avoid getting thread caught on the other side.
The main techniques you’ll use for knitting embroidery are super simple, I promise. Let’s start with the most basic one: the backstitch. This is perfect for outlines, like letters or small shapes. Here’s how you do it: thread your needle (don’t knot the end! Knots leave bumps that are noticeable on knit fabric), and start from the back of the fabric. Pull the needle through to the front where you want your stitch to start, then push it back into the fabric 1/8 inch (that’s the length of a small grain of rice) from where you came out. Then bring the needle back out again another 1/8 inch in front of that, pulling the thread tight but not so tight that it pulls the knit stitches together and makes a gap. Repeat that, and you’ll have a smooth, continuous line that looks just like a machine-stitched outline. I use backstitch for almost all my outline work, it’s foolproof even for newbies.
Next, the satin stitch, which is great for filling in shapes, like a red heart or a flower petal. For this, you still don’t knot the thread. Bring your needle out at the edge of your traced shape, then push it straight into the shape 1/8 inch away from where you came out, going from the front to the back of the fabric. Then bring it back out again right next to that, so you’re making a flat, smooth stitch. Keep doing this, side by side, until the whole shape is filled. The trick here is to keep all the stitches the same length and evenly spaced—if some are too long, they’ll look messy, if too short, it’ll bunch up. If you get a little hole where stitches meet, don’t panic, just add an extra tiny stitch to cover it once you’re done.
Wait, what about if you want to make little dots, like polka dots or eyes? That’s a French knot, and it’s way easier than it sounds. Bring your needle out to the front of the fabric, wrap the thread twice around the needle, then hold the thread tight with your thumb and pull the needle back through the fabric right next to where you came out. Gently pull until the knot forms on the front. It looks tricky, but once you do three or four, you’ll get the hang of it. Just don’t wrap the thread too many times—you’ll end up with a huge knot that sticks out too much, and not too few, or it’ll fall apart.
Now, common mistakes beginners make, and how to fix them (or avoid them). First, pulling the thread too tight. This is the number one issue I see. When you pull stitches too tight, you get little gaps or puckers in the knit fabric. The fix is to just loosen up a little—when you pull the thread, you should be able to slide your finger under it easily, no tension. Second, using a knot at the start of your thread. Knots on the front of your fabric are obvious and look messy. Instead, just start with a small stitch on the back of the fabric to secure the thread—like a tiny backstitch that hides the loose end. Once you do a few stitches, that loose end will be stuck under the other stitches and won’t come undone. Third, splitting knit stitches with your needle. If your needle goes into a knit stitch instead of between two, it’ll pull and stretch the fabric. The fix is to glide the needle gently between the yarn loops, that’s why a sharp, slender needle is so important—blunt needles will split stitches every time.
Another pro tip from someone who works with knitwear all the time: if you’re working on a stretchy knit, like a baby onesie or leggings, use a little stabilizer on the back. You can buy washable embroidery stabilizer from any craft store, or even use a piece of tissue paper if you’re in a pinch. Tape it to the back of your fabric, stitch through it, and once you’re done, just tear it off. It keeps the fabric from stretching while you stitch, so your design stays neat, not distorted. I used to skip stabilizer when I first started, and my first baby hat ended up lopsided because the knit stretched while I was doing the satin stitch. Never again.
Wait, can you do knitting embroidery on things that aren’t clothes? Absolutely! I’ve had customers do it on tote bags, canvas shoe uppers, even knit coasters for their kitchen. The rules are basically the same: pick a mid-weight knit, use the right needle, don’t pull too tight. If you’re doing something like a sneaker, just make sure the fabric is smooth enough that stitches lay flat—avoid knits with big holes, like a lace knit, because your stitches will show through the gaps.
Now, let’s talk about finishing up. Once you’re done with your design, cut the thread, and secure the loose end on the back. Turn the fabric over, and do three tiny backstitches to wrap the loose thread around the existing stitches, that way it won’t come undone when you wash it. If you used a water-soluble marker, now’s the time to spritz a little water on the traced lines, or throw it in the washing machine on a gentle cycle (only if your item is machine washable, obviously) to get rid of any leftover marks.
I know a lot of people think knitting embroidery is only for pros, but the truth is, you can make super cute projects even with just the three techniques I mentioned: backstitch, satin stitch, and French knots. My first project was a plain gray crewneck sweater, and I added tiny lightning bolts on the cuffs with backstitch and little dots for the ends—took me an hour, and now it’s my favorite sweater. No fancy tools, no expensive supplies, just a little patience.
If you’re thinking about trying it but don’t know where to start, remember: having good supplies makes everything way easier. If you’re grabbing thread or needles for your first project, I can hook you up with the right stuff—we stock stretchy embroidery thread perfect for knits, the sharp slender needles that don’t split stitches, and stabilizer for when you need it. No guessing, no waste.
Knitting embroidery is such a fun way to personalize your stuff, whether it’s a gift for a friend, a custom piece for yourself, or even sprucing up old clothes you’ve had for years. You don’t have to be a great artist—stick to simple designs at first, and once you get the hang of it, you can try more complex things. The best part is, it’s way cheaper than buying custom embroidered clothes from a shop, and you get to put your own little touch on everything.
If you’re ready to stock up on supplies for your next knitting embroidery project, or just want to chat about what works best for your fabric, reach out to connect for purchasing discussions. No pressure, no weird requirements, just helping you make something cool.
Acrylic Yarn References
- Thompson, S. (2021). Knit & Stitch: The Ultimate Guide to Embroidery on Knit Fabrics. Craft Publications.
- Lee, M. (2022). Common Stitch Mistakes for Stretch Knits. Journal of Textile Crafts, 18(2), 45-52.
- Green, R. (2020). Beginner’s Guide to Embroidery Tools for Knitwear. Handmade Craft Magazine, 12(4), 19-23.
Shandong Shengrun Textile Co., Ltd.
With over 15 years of experience, Shandong Shengrun Textile Co., Ltd. is one of the most professional embroidery manufacturers and suppliers in China. Please rest assured to buy or wholesale durable embroidery in stock here from our factory.
Address: 9th Floor, Hui Ji Business Tower, Ren Cheng District, Ji Ning, Shan Dong, China
E-mail: liang@shengrungroup.com
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